Area: Everest Region

Season: March – May, Oct – Nov

Highest Point: 6,812 m

Grade Level: 5

Ama Dablam 6,812 metres (22,349 ft), one of the most beautiful mountains in the world, is a technical mountain for climbing. Although the height is only 6812m it requires steep ice, rock and snow climbing. Normally, three camps are set in the approach above the base camp (4,570m), however, only two camps are used to spend the night. The normal route for climbing is South-West Ridge. The ascent from Base Camp to camp one is considered one the difficult days of the expedition. We follow old grassy moraine ridges passing through a saddle and then turning to north climbing up rocky ground and through boulders to the ridge where camp I is set up. From camp I, we cross a rocky bowl and climb the ridge frequently alternating the sides along the fixed lines to the camp II. Climbing the ridge involves severe rock climbing which leads to the top of a yellow tower. The climbing route here from camp II changes significantly with the steep mixed gully’s of rock, ice and snow. The route leads to the ramp and climbs to an amphitheatre and then passes through steep snow and ice runnel and finally, along the snow ridge to reach camp III. The summit from camp III requires steep climb on snow and ice to the right of a huge hanging glacier.

Ama Dablam 6,812 metres (22,349 ft)

Experience Required: The Ama Dablam expedition is one of the most technically difficult expeditions. The climbers need to have good skills on rock and ice climbing and technically competent. On most parts of the routes there will be fixed rope, however, the climbers should posses skills to climb through steep rock and hard water ice.

Day By Day Itinerary:

Day 1: Arrival Kathmandu – Hotel
Day 2: sightseeing of Kathmandu Day 02 Kathmandu
Day 3: Day free to organize gears and breifing on the trip.
Day 4: fly to Lukla. Trek to Phakding.
Day 5: Trek to Namche Bazaar 3,410 m.
Day 6: Rest day in Namche.
Day 7 :Trek to Tengboche.
Day 8: Trek to Dingboche.
Day 9: Rest in Dingboche
Day 10: Trek to Lobuche
Day 11: Kalapathar & back Lobuche.
Day 12: Trek Back Pangboche
Day 13: Trek to Ama Dablam BC 4,480 mtr.
Day 14: Rest on Base Camp
Day 15-28: Ama Dablam Climbing Period
Day 29: Back to Base Camp and clean Base Camp.
Day 30:Trek back Tengboche
Day 31: Trek back to Namche Bazaar.
Day 32: Trek back to Phakding.
Day 33: Final trek to Lukla.
Day 34: Fly back to Kathmandu.
Day 35: Final departure

* Source :  – http://www.sherpaclimbing.com/Nepal/Expedition/

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

http://www.nepalvisitors.com/

Nepal travel and trekking information. Includes, tour, tourism, trek, hiking, expedition, peak climbing, adventure holidays trips in Nepal.

Mustang has a long, rich and complex history that masks it one of the most interesting place in Nepal. The early history of Lo is Surrounded in legend. Myth and mystery, But there are records of events in Lo as early as the 8th century. It is quite likely that the Tibetan poet Milarepa, who lived from 1040 to 1123, visited Lo. Upper Mustang was once part of Ngari, a name for far western Tibet. Ngari was not a true political entity, but rather a loose collection of feudal domains that also included parts of Dolpo. By the 14th Century, much of Ngari, as well as most of what today is western Nepal, was part of the Malla empire governed from the capital at Sinja, near Jumla. It is generally believed that Ame Pal (Ama-dpal in Tibetan ) founded Lo in 1380 and was its first king. The Ancestry of the present Mustang Raja can be traced 25 generations back to Ame Pal. Ame Pal, or perhaps his father, conquered a large part of the territory in the upper Kali Gandaki and was responsible for the development of the city of Lo Manthang and many gompas. To the west, the Malla empire declined and split into numerous petty hill states. By the 18th century, Jumla had consolidated and reasserted its power. In an effort to develop their domain as a trading centre and to obtain Tibetan goods, the rulers of Jumla turned their attention eastward. In the mid-18th century they assumed control over Lo, from which they extracted as annual tribute. When he ascended the throne in 1762, prithvi Narayan Shah began to consolidated what is present-day nepal. At the time of his death, the kingdom extended from Gorkha eastward to the borders of Sikkim. His descendants directed their efforts westward and by 1789, Jumla had been annexed. The Gorkha armies never actually entered Lo; they recognized the rule of the Mustang Raja. Although Mustang became par of Nepal, the raja retained his title and Lo retained a certain amount of autonomy. Lo maintained its status as a separate principality until 1951. After the Rana rulers were overthrown and king Tribhuvan reestablished the rule of the Shah monarchs on 15 February 1951, Lo was more closely consolidated into Nepal. The raja was given the honorary rank of colonel in the Nepal army.

Mustang Trek

During the 1960s, after the Dalai lama had fled to India and Chiness armies established control over Tibet, Mustang was a centre for guerrilla operations against the Chinese. The soldiers were the Khampas, Tibet’s most fearsome warriors, who were backed by the CIA (some Khampas were secretly trained in the USA). At the height of the fighting there were at least 6000khampas in Mustang and neighboring border areas. The CIA’s support ended in the early 1970s when the USA, under Kissinger and Nixon, Initiated new and Better relations with the Chinese. The government of Nepal was pressed to take action against the guerrillas and, making use of internal divisions within the Khampa leadership, a bit of treachery and the Dalai Lama’s taped advice for his citizens to lay down their arms, it managed to disband the resistance without committing to action the 10,000 Nepali troops that had been sent to the area.

Mustang Trek

Though Mustang was closed, the vovernment allowed a few researchers into the area.Toni hagen included Mustang in his survey of the entire kindom of Nepal, and the Italian scholar Giuseppe Tucci visited in the autumn of 1952. Professor David Snellgrove travelled to the gegion in 1956 but did not visit Lo Manthang. Longtime Nepal resident Barbara Adams travelled to Mustang during the autumn of 1963.The most complete description of the area is Mustang, the Forbidden Kingdom, written by Michel Peissel, who spent several months in the area in the spring of 1964, Dr Harka Bahadur Gurung also visited and wrote about upper Mustang in October 1973. A number of groups legally travelled to upper Mustang during the 1980s by obtaining permission to climb Bhrikuti (6364), south-east of Lo Manthang.Other than a few special royal guests, the first legal trekkers were allowed into Mustang in March 1992 upon payment of a high fee for a special trekking permit.

Only camping trek allowed:
Completely closed to foreign trekkers until 1991, Mustang is an ancient Himalayan Kingdom. Inside the walled city of Lo Manthang are some of the largest Tibetan Buddhist gompas in Nepal. A difficult trek because of high altitude, exposed terrain and continual Strong winds.

Trip Facts:
Trekking Destination : Mustang Trek
Minimum altitude : 2810m.
Maximum altitude : 4,100m. (Ghar Gumba)
Grade :
Season : Spring & Autumn
Accommodation : Tented Camp
Duration : 17 Days
Minimum group size: 2 pax
Cost:$2050

Suggested Itinerary :
Day 01: Arrive Kathmandu & Transfer to Hotel.
Day 02: Full day guided sightseeing around of the Kathmandu valley. Join us for the welcome dinner at evening.
Day 03: Fly to Pokhara. Free to explore its attractions.
Day 04: Fly to Jomsom (2,700m), trek to Kagbeni (2,800m) (4 hrs) Camp
Day 05: Trek Kagbeni to Chhukasang (3,060m) (5-6 hrs). Camp.
Day 06: Trek Chhukasang to Samar (3,570m) (7-8 hrs). Camp.
Day 07: Trek Samar  to Dhakmar (3,560m) (6-7 hrs). Camp.
Day 08: Trek Dhakmar  to Tsarang (3,840m) (4-5 hrs). Camp.
Day 09: Trek Tsarang to  Lo-Manthang (3,840m). Camp.
Day 10: Trek Lo-Manthang (Visit Eastern and Western Valley )
Day 11: Trek Lo-Manthang to Yara. (6 hrs). Camp.
Day 12: Trek Yara to Tangy (2,600m) (8 hrs). Camp.
Day 13: Trek Tangy to Tetang (2,600m). Camp.
Day 14: Trek Tetang to Muktinath  (3,600m) (5 hrs). Camp.
Day 15: Trek Muktinath To Jomsom (2700m)(4 hrs). Camp.
Day 16: Flight Jomsom – Pokhara – Kathmandu.
Day 17: Free day to explore, and enjoy Kathmandu.
Day 18: Final Departure.

Copyright Contain By:
Nepal Visitors Network
P.O. Box :19760, Thamel, Kathmandu, Nepal.
Tel :+977-1-4263133, Fax:+977-1-4216454, +9779841258665 (M)
Skype: nepalvisitors
info@nepalvisitors.com

* Source :- http://himalman.wordpress.com/ – http://www.nepalvisitors.com/

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

Manaslu used to be a restricted trekking area , only from December 2007 that it is allowed for general trekkers. The Manaslu trekking takes us to the upper Budhi Gandaki of Gorkha district , also called Nupri in Tibetan. The region borders with Tibet, the people have active trading with the Tibetans and they are themselves descendants of Tibetans. Their speech, clothing and cultureare same as that of Tibetans. Manaslu trekking offers preserved, authentic villages, invaluable old monasteries, Tibetan Buddhist culture and superb mountain views. This trip is both a Himalayan trek and a cultural journey to medieval world.

The Manaslu trekking starts with a five hour drive to Arughat and the trail follows the valley of thundering Budhi Gandaki river. Passing through numerous waterfalls and enjoying the alpine scenery, we reach the exotic Buddhist villages of Sirdibas and Samagaon. These villages offer an otherworldly , exotic atmosphere and are a great place to watch authentic Buddhist arts. The mountain views in Nupri are sensational and the Larke pass (5,213m) is a dramatic Himalayan pass to cross. Crossing the Larke pass we emerge to Marshyangdi valley on the popular Annapurna circuit trek. Our trek ends at Beshisahar where we catch our vehicle back to Kathmandu.

Manaslu Trekking Itinerary

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu, transfer to the hotel.
Day 02: Guided sightseeing tour in Kathmandu
Day 03: Drive to Arughat-500m (6 hr).
Day 04: Trek to – Arkhet-650m ( 5-6 hr).
Day 05: Trek to – Labu Bensi-700m (6-7 hr).
Day 06: Trek to -  Tatopani-800m (5-6 hr).
Day 07: Trek to – Sirdibas
Day 08: Trek to -  Ngyak-1550m (6-7 hr).
Day 09: Trek to – Namru-2450m (6-7 hr).
Day 10: Trek to – Lho Gaon-3000m (5-6 hr).
Day 11: Trek to – Sama Gaon-3450m (5-6 hr).
Day 12: Trek to – Samdo-3900m (4-5 hr).
Day 13: Rest and acclimatisation at Samdo
Day 14: Samdo – Larke Bazar-4150m (4-5 hr).
Day 15: Cross Larke Pass 5213m, the highest point in Manaslu trekking. Trek further to Bhimathang-3800m (7-8 hr)
Day 16: Bhimathang- Karche-2550m (5-6 hr).
Day 17: Karche- Dharapani-1943m (6-7 hr).
Day 18: Dharapani- Jagat-1314m (6-7 hr).
Day 19: Jagat- Bhulbhule
Day 20: Bhulbhule Besishahar
Day 21: Drive Besishahar to Kathmandu, 5 hours
Day 22: Free day in Kathmandu.Farewell Nepali dinner with ethnic cultural show.
Day 23: Fly back home

Manaslu trekking permit

Sep to Nov USD 35/week
Dec to Aug USD 25/week

Price: All our trips are tailor made trips with personalized services. In order for us to quote you the price, please write us with the number of persons in your group, your choice of hotels and ammendments in our itinerary, if any. Our prices are very reasonnable for the services we provide.

Included in the price

• All surface transfers as per itinerary
• Trekking permit.
• Two star hotel in Kathmandu in twin sharing ,bed and breakfast basis
• Fooding, lodging and other expenses of trekking crew
• Fooding (3 meals a day ) and lodging for the clients in trek days
• Necessary permit and national park fees
• Guided sightseeing tour in Kathmandu
• Farewell Nepali dinner.

Not included in the price

• single suppliment charges (if required.)
• Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu
• Departure tax from Kathmandu ($24 approx)
• Personal equipments and clothing
• International airfare and your travel insurances
• Cold drinks and beverages
• Personal expenses and tips to the crew

* Source :  – http://www.trekkingnepal.biz/

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

Three climbers were lost – among them 3-time ExWeb award winner Sergei Samoilov; Denis Urubko’s free-spirited and courageous climbing partner.

The south side is now deserted while on the north side only a few climbers are still attempting ascents. Meanwhile, Pakistan is kicking off – with security updates posted at ExWeb.

Lhotse-Everest traverse: Max, Vaso and Sergei left BC on Sunday May 23rd and reported fair weather in C4 a few days later. Wednesday shocking news however arrived that Sergei Samoilov had perished. Sergei, 52, was Denis Urubko’s frequent climbing partner. A 2005 climb on Broad Peak’s unclimbed SW face gained the two an ExplorersWeb award, and a nomination for the international Piolet d’Or. In 2006 Denis and Sergei completed a new route on the NE side of Manaslu and in 2007, Denis and Sergei summited K2 in its latest summit ever and the first K2 north side summit in 11 years. The two mountaineers are the only to have gained no less than three Best-of-ExWeb awards (2005-2007). The remaining climbers of the Kazakh 2009 Lhotse-Everest traverse descended to BC by Friday and left for Lukla.

Everest casualties German (Calgary resident) Frank Ziebarth, 29, reportedly perished after summiting Everest w/o O2 via the South side on May 21st. Czech Veslav Chrzaszcz reportedly passed during the night at the North Col on May 18th, probably due to a heart attack.

Everest north side: Jarle Traa seriously ill in ABC Following a summit without O2 Norwegian climber Jarle Traa descended to ABC in critical condition with frostbite and hypothermia. Negotiations with Chinese authorities to allow an emergency airlift failed and Traa was eventually evacuated by car and transported to hospital in Kathmandu.

South side rescues 2008 K2 American/International expedition leader Mike Farris was reportedly climbing Everest south side without oxygen as an independent climber. Fellow mountaineers said he asked for help at the balcony and several large commercial teams reportedly assisted the climber down to C4.

First Ascent: Ed’s O2 “It was my goal and my desire to attempt my 7th Everest summit without supplementary O2,” Ed Viesturs reported. “To climb without O2 though, conditions have to be perfect. However, we had to spend an extra day at the South Col. At leaving for the summit on the following night it was very cold, windy and crowds were expected on the route. That’s why, for the sake of safety and group dynamics, that after long deliveries I opted to use O2 on my ascent.”

Everest records Bill Burke of Cost Mesa, Calif., became the oldest American Everest summiteer at 67. Eddy Dawes, 66, of Spokane, topped-out two days before. Kay LeClaire, 60, of Spokane, became the oldest U.S. woman to climb the peak. Lori Schneider 52, of Wisconsin, summited Everest with multiple sclerosis.

Nepali K2 heroes bag a double together Pasang Lama and Chhiring Dorje Sherpa summitted Makalu and Lhotse together on May 2nd and 22nd without the use of supplemental oxygen. Pasang, cousin of the Bhote brothers, and Chhiring Dorje Sherpa climbed K2 together last year as Sherpas for the Korean and American/International expeditions.

Cho Oyu: SummitClimb reportedly topped out Cho Oyu last Sunday. “It’s very windy up here and we can see Everest, so that’s how we know we’re on the summit. We can look out and see the Tibetan plateau,” Dan reported.

Shisha Pangma: The Romanian expedition to Shisha’ SW Face is re-scheduled for 17 September, according to the team’s website.

Kangchenjunga Basque war wounds Jorge Egocheaga, suffering from acute bronchitis during the summit push, broke three ribs. Koke Lasa and summiteer Alberto Zerain are also reportedly frostbitten.

Lhotse: Summit reports In her debrief, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner reported how she waited to take the last steps with Ralf. “It was exhausting and wonderful at the same time – I was there to escort my husband the moment he achieved his 14th 8000+ meters summit.” Silvio Mondinelli commented, “she is humble and not competitive at all. In fact, Gerl was really concerned at knowing Edurne had problems on descent from Kangchenjunga’s summit.”

Nanda Devi East – it’s over “The summit attempt failed due to bad weather conditions and Jarek’s health problems,” the Polish home team reported. “All expedition’s members are currently back in Base Camp.” Running out of time in rough weather, the expedition is now over.

Pakistan: First climbers in Broad Peak BC – security update Antoine Girard, Ludo Gianbiasi and Annapurna survivor Eli Revol have arrived Broad Peak and started their ascent. The French team drove non-stop past Chilas “since Taliban terrorists are reported to descend from Swat valley in the dark and loot convoys staying for the night in villages by the KKH,” but reported no incidents. Rumors about the kidnapping of a foreign expedition leader were debunked by ExWeb correspondent in Islamabad Karrar Haidri. “A French citizen has been kidnapped in Quetta as he arrived there from Iran, but that person is not related to climbing expeditions.”

New teams for K2 Pakistan and China will unite on K2. Twice Everest summiteer Yang Chunfeng (40) is teaming up with two yet undisclosed Pakistani climbers. “The expedition has been given the name ‘K2 Bearing witness to the friendship between Pakistan and China’,” APP news agency reported. Yang won’t be the only Chinese climber on K2 this summer: Shi Hai Feng, outfitted by Saltoro Summits, will attempt the peak together with a climbing mate. Thomas Andersen, Mads Kristensen and Jakob Mikkelsen also announced plans for K2.

Multi-Gasherbrum international expedition An international team is climbing all the Gasherbrums this season, with each member aiming for a certain number of peaks. Bruce Normand will go for the 4 higher G’s (GI, GII, GII and GIV); Dirk Grunert will attempt both GI and GII; Polish Jacek Teler hopes to climb GII and possibly K2; Kinga Baranowska is heading for the two 8000+ meters Gasherbrums, while Daniela Teixeira and Paulo Roxo will return for GII via the French spur.

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.

e-mail or call +1 212 966 1928

* Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

* zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

7 Night/ 8 Days Bhutan Tour. Bhutan Group Tours to Thimpu, Paro, Wangdi and Punakha Valleys.

The Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan offers Western and Asian tourist a unique and well preserved culture and heritage of this beautiful country. A majority of the Bhutanese people are of Tibetan origin and follow a sect of Tibetan Buddhism. One of the least densely populated countrries in Aisa, Bhutan offers a charming culture and hospitable people amongst a grand landscape of forested mountains and deep valleys gushing with clear rivers. Visit quaint villages with wooden singled rooms, great fortressed dzongs and Buddhist monasteries as you literally travel back in time. We offer short 4 to 5 day tours to Bhutan as well as week long tours to experience Bhutan’s famous western valleys. The longer Bhutan tours will take you to the central valleys of Bumthang and even to little visited far Eastern towns of Mongar and Tashigang. Join our Group tours to Bhutan or we can arrange customized private tour to Bhutan.

Day By Day Itinerary:

1 ARRIVE BHUTAN
Fly Bangkok to Paro, Bhutan.
Afternoon visit Museum and Paro Town. Hotel.
Flights are also available from Kathmandu and New Delhi.
2 PARO SIGHTSEEING
Hike to Taktsang Monastery (3-4 hrs).
Overnight hotel in Paro.
3 THIMPU SIGHTSEEING
Drive Paro to Thimpu. Afternoon sightseeing.
Overnight at hotel in Thimpu.
4 PUNAKHA & WANGDUE SIGHTSEEING
Day Excurdion to Punakha & Wangdue valleys.
Overnight hotel in Paro.
5 PHOBJEKHA VALLEY SIGHTSEEING
Day excursion to Phobjekha valley.
Overnight hotel in Punakha.
6 THIMPU SIGHTSEEING
Drive to Thimpu. Afternoon free in Thimpu.
Overnight at hotel in Thimpu.
7 PARO SIGHTSEEING
Return to Paro. Afternoon in Paro.
Overnight hotel in Paro.
8 DEPARTURE FROM BHUTAN
Fly from Paro to Bangkok, Kathmandu or New Delhi. End of Tour.

* Source : – http://www.forbestraveler.com/ – http://www.explorehimalaya.com/

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 led by Jan Lenczowski (Grandson of Jakub Bujaka – first ascent Nanda Devi East), the team : MARCIN MIOTK, GRZEGORZ MRÓZ, JAROSŁAW WOĆKO, NARCYZ SADŁOŃ, PAWEŁ SZLACHTA, TOMASZ WALKIEWICZ, DANIEL CIESZYŃSKI, GRZESIEK SOSIŃSKI, RAFAŁ SZENDZIELARZ.

Goal:

Nanda Devi East (7816 m ) – they will attempt to conquer the mountain using the Polish route from 1939.

Accomplishment time:

The attempt will take place between 20 April and 7 June 2009.

Description of the expedition:

The expedition will commence in 20 April 2009. The participants have obtained all necessary permits. They will attempt to conquer the mountain using the Polish route from 1939.

Nanda Devi is the tallest mountain in the Garhwal Himalaya, and the second tallest peak in all of India. It consists of two distinct summits, with the main peak reaching 7816m with the secondary summit, known as Nanda Devi East, topping out 7434m. The entire massif is surrounded by a ring of challenging and tall Himalayan peaks, which helps to make the region, known as the Nanda Devi Sanctuary, almost inaccessible. The mountain is also viewed as sacred to the Hindi people, as it is named after one of their goddesses. Many consider it to be the one of the most beautiful mountains in the world.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 – in review.

Himalaya wrap-up: over on Nanda Devi East.

27.05.2009 Nanda Devi East – – it’s over.

Expedition leader Jan Lenczowski writes today on the Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 website, that forecasts show no chance of a window before June 7, the end of  accomplishment time. They organizing porters and BC is packed up.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 team : MARCIN MIOTK, GRZEGORZ MRÓZ, JAROSŁAW WOĆKO, NARCYZ SADŁOŃ, PAWEŁ SZLACHTA, TOMASZ WALKIEWICZ, DANIEL CIESZYŃSKI, GRZESIEK SOSIŃSKI, RAFAŁ SZENDZIELARZ, JAN LENCZOWSKI.

Inscription : Nanda Devi East, 2.7.1939, first ascent, A. Karpiński, J. Bujak, S. Bernadzikiewicz, J. Klarner POLAND

* Source : – http://nandadevi.pl/

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009

– wyprawa z okazji 70 lecia polskiego himalaizmu.

Z okazji 70-lecia pierwszej polskiej wyprawy w Himalaje wyruszyła wyprawa jubileuszowa na Nanda Devi East.

Celem obecnej wyprawy jest przypomnienie o sukcesach Polaków w Himalajach i powtórzenie drogi z 1939 roku. Trzon ekspedycji stanowić będą młodzi himalaiści, mający już doświadczenie wspinaczkowe w górach wysokich. Wyprawa wyruszyła 20 kwietnia, powrót zaplanowano na 7 czerwca 2009 roku.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 – relacje.

27.05.2009 Zakończenie wyprawy.

Niestety nie udało się zdobyć szczytu,  tym razem zwyciężyła pogoda. A oto jak uczestnicy wyprawy relacjonują jej zakończenie.

Wszyscy członkowie wyprawy Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 są już w bazie. Ze względu na fatalne warunki pogodowe oraz brak czasu na dalszą akcję górską, kierownictwo podjęło decyzję o zakończeniu wyprawy. Wszyscy alpiniści czują się dobrze.

Szczegóły w relacji kierownika wyprawy Jana Lenczowskiego: RELACJA
Atak szczytowy nie powiódł się z powodu złych warunków atmosferycznych (ograniczona widoczność i silny wiatr) oraz kłopotów zdrowotnych Jarka Woćko.

Szczegóły w relacji Daniela Cieszyńskiego z obozu II: RELACJA

Dzisiaj około godziny 10 czasu miejscowego, uczestnicy wyprawy odsłonili w okolicach bazy tablicę pamiątkową z inskrypcją: ” Nanda Devi East, 2.7.1939, first ascent, A. Karpiński, J. Bujak, S. Bernadzikiewicz, J. Klarner POLAND”. Pomysł i projekt tablicy powstał przy współpracy wszystkich uczestników Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009, z inspiracji Narcyza Sadłonia.

Relacja Jana Lenczowskiego: RELACJA

W Fotogalerii znajdują się nowe zdjęcia z obozu II i odsłonięcia tablicy.

** Źródła : – http://nandadevi.pl/

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 led by Jan Lenczowski (Grandson of Jakub Bujaka – first ascent Nanda Devi East), the team : MARCIN MIOTK, GRZEGORZ MRÓZ, JAROSŁAW WOĆKO, NARCYZ SADŁOŃ, PAWEŁ SZLACHTA, TOMASZ WALKIEWICZ, DANIEL CIESZYŃSKI, GRZESIEK SOSIŃSKI, RAFAŁ SZENDZIELARZ.

Goal:

Nanda Devi East (7816 m ) – they will attempt to conquer the mountain using the Polish route from 1939.

Accomplishment time:

The attempt will take place between 20 April and 7 June 2009.

Description of the expedition:

The expedition will commence in 20 April 2009. The participants have obtained all necessary permits. They will attempt to conquer the mountain using the Polish route from 1939.

Nanda Devi is the tallest mountain in the Garhwal Himalaya, and the second tallest peak in all of India. It consists of two distinct summits, with the main peak reaching 7816m with the secondary summit, known as Nanda Devi East, topping out 7434m. The entire massif is surrounded by a ring of challenging and tall Himalayan peaks, which helps to make the region, known as the Nanda Devi Sanctuary, almost inaccessible. The mountain is also viewed as sacred to the Hindi people, as it is named after one of their goddesses. Many consider it to be the one of the most beautiful mountains in the world.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 – in review.

26.05.2009  The summit attempt not succeeded.

Expedition member Tomek Walkiewicz writes today on the Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 website that first attempt ended at around 6,900 m.

25.05.2009 The summit attempt starts tonight

Tonight Jarek Woćko and Daniel Cieszyński will try to get to the summit of Nanda Devi East.

Unfortunately during the weekend the weather changed at Nanda Devi massif. Visibility was restricted to 10 m and the wind was very strong.

Today the weather was a little bit better. Jarek and Daniel got to the heigh of 6900 m. Tonight they start first summit attempt.

23.05.2009 The Camp II set up

Today Jarek Woćko, Daniel Cieszyński i Marcin Miotk set up the Camp II at the height of 6500 m.

Yesterday they did not manage to leave the ridge and get to the height of 6500 m, where there is quite flat area to put the tent. They had to spend the night on the very narrow ridge.

Today everything went according to the plan and the Camp II was set up.

* Source : – http://nandadevi.pl/

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009

– wyprawa z okazji 70 lecia polskiego himalaizmu.

Z okazji 70-lecia pierwszej polskiej wyprawy w Himalaje wyruszyła wyprawa jubileuszowa na Nanda Devi East.

Celem obecnej wyprawy jest przypomnienie o sukcesach Polaków w Himalajach i powtórzenie drogi z 1939 roku. Trzon ekspedycji stanowić będą młodzi himalaiści, mający już doświadczenie wspinaczkowe w górach wysokich. Wyprawa wyruszyła 20 kwietnia, powrót zaplanowano na 7 czerwca 2009 roku.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 – relacje.

26.05.2009 Odwrót

Niestety z powodu fatalnych warunków atmosferycznych ekipie szczytowej nie udało się zdobyć wierzchołka Nanda Devi East.

Jarek Woćko, Daniel Cieszyński i Janek Lenczowski wracają właśnie do bazy głównej.

Tomek Walkiewicz  – RELACJA

Nanda Devi – na zdjęciu zaznaczono prawdopodobną najwyższą pozycję (6900 m) jaką udało się osiągnąć Jarkowi Woćko i Danielowi Cieszyńskiemu. Punkt jest zaznaczony schematycznie na podstawie relacji ekipy.

25.05.2009 Atak szczytowy za kilka godzin

We wtorek, 26 maja, Jarek Woćko i Daniel Cieszyński podejmą jedyną próbę ataku szczytowego. Z obozu II wyruszą ok. godz. 3. W obozie I na przełęczy Longstaffa znajduje się Janek Lenczowski. Pozostali uczestnicy oczekują w bazie.

Jeśli łączność pozwoli przebieg ataku szczytowego będziemy relacjonować na bieżąco na stronie www.nandadevi.pl.

Tomek Walkiewicz z bazy  głównej: RELACJA

25.05.2009 Załamanie pogody, ale akcja szczytowa trwa

Miniony weekend przyniósł przełom w pogodzie, ale też w akcji górskiej.

Sobota:
Obóz II (6500 m n.p.m.) został założony ponad skalną częścią grani, daleko za zaporęczowanym odcinkiem. Z powodu trudnego terenu, wykopanie platformy pod namiot zajęło 1,5 godziny. Widoczność na górze wynosiła tylko 10m, w dodatku wiał bardzo silny wiatr.

Jarek Woćko z obozu  II: RELACJA

Niedziela:
W niedzielę nastąpiło silne załamanie pogody. W bazie padał śnieg, powyżej 6000 m n.p.m. widoczność spadła do zera. Jarosław Woćko i Daniel Cieszyński czekają z atakiem na zmianę pogody.

Tomek Walkiewicz z bazy  głównej: RELACJA

Poniedziałek:
Godz. 8:00 czasu miejscowego W obozie II widoczność poprawiła się. Jarek i Daniel zamierzają wyjść w ciągu godziny. Dalsze plany uzależniają od zmiany pogody.

Rozmowa przez radio Narcyza Sadłonia z Jarkiem  Woćko: RELACJA

Godz. 10:00 Jarek i Daniel dotarli na 6900 m n.pm.! Jutro zamierzają podjąć atak szczytowy na lekko.

Tumany chmur nad masywem Nanda Devi

23.05.2009 Obóz II założony

Dzisiaj Jarek Woćko, Daniel Cieszyński i Marcin Miotk założyli obóz II na wysokości 6500 m.

W dniu wczorajszym zespołowi nie udało się opuścić grani i dotrzeć na pola firnowe pod Wielkim Uskokiem, gdzie miał zostać założony obóz II. Po całodniowej wspinaczce na powietrznej grani, gdzie każdy błąd groził upadkiem w dwukilometrową przepaść, chłopaki musieli rozbić obóz na grani na wysokości 6300 m. Szczegóły w relacji Jarka.

Jarek Woćko  – RELACJA

Dzisiaj wszystko poszło już zgodnie z planem i obóz II został założony na wyokości 6500 m.

Na poniższym szkicu zaznaczono obóz II oraz 3 uskoki, które muszą pokonać alpiniści przed szczytem i które będą stanowić główny problem wspinaczkowy.

Szkic udostępniony dzięki uprzejmości Ricard Miquel z hiszpańskiej wyprawy, która zdobyła szczyt w 2004 roku.

** Źródła : – http://nandadevi.pl/

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

Nepal Trekking – Annapurna Base Camp

From this glacier basin, known as the Annapurna Sanctuary, the Modi Khola knifes its way south in a narrow gorge fully 3660m deep. Further south, the gorge opens up into a wide and fertile valley, the domain of the Gurungs. The middle and upper portions of Modi Khola offer some of the best short trekking routes in Nepal, and the valley is located so that these treks can be easily combined with treks into the Kali Gandaki region to the west.

The combination of pretty villages and farmland at Ghaundrung, set against the panorama of high peaks beyond makes this one of the most picturesque of treks. Natural hot spring at Jhinudanda.

Itinerary:

DAY PLACE ALTITUDE

Day 1 Arrive in Kathmandu – Transfer to Hotel 1,355 m

Day 2 Sightseeing in Kathmandu – Afternoon free 1,355 m

Day 3 Kathmandu to Pokhara 820 m

Day 4 Pokhara – Nayapul – Tikhe Dhungha 1,540 m

Day 5 Tikhe Dhungha to Ghorepani 2,750 m

Day 6 Gohrepani – Poon Hill – Tadapani 3,193 m

Day 7 Tadapani to Chhomrong 2,340 m

Day 8 Chhomrong to Doban 2,335 m

Day 9 Doban to Deurali 2,920 m

Day 10 Deurali – MBC – Annapurna BC (ABC) 4,130 m

Day 11 Annapurna Base Camp to Himalaya 2,505 m

Day 12 Himalaya to Chhomrong

Day 13 Chhomrong to Jhinu Danda 2,340 m

Day 14 Jhinu Danda to Ghandruk 1,940 m

Day 15 Ghandruk – Nayapul – Pokhara 820 m

Day 16 Pokhara to Kathmandu 1,355 m

Day 17 At Leisure in Kathmandu 1,355 m

Day 18 End of Trip – Flight back Home 1,355 m

* Source : – http://www.mountmerutreks.blogspot.com/

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

On 18th of May Kinga Baranowska as the first Polish woman (Alpinus Expedition Team, KW Warsaw) summited Kangchenjunga (8586 m) which is located in Nepal.

Kangchenjunga have been summited in high winds – however, descent on Kang is reportedly very difficult.

Kinga’s Summits :

Cho Oyu (8201 m) – October , 2003 ;

Broad Peak (8047 m) – Julay 22, 2006 – The 11 woman ascent;

Nanga Parbat (8125 m) Julay 18, 2007

Dhaulagiri (8167 m) May 01, 2008 – first Polish woman

Manaslu (8156 m) October 5, 2008 – first Polish woman

Kangchenjunga (8586 m) May 18, 2009 – first Polish woman

* Official site : – http://www.kingabaranowska.com/

** – all my post, select category : – Kinga Baranowska

Kinga Baranowska pierwszą Polką, która zdobyła Kanczendzonge.

18 Maja 2009 Kinga Baranowska (Alpinus Expedition Team, KW Warszawa) stanęła, w późnych godzinach popołudniowych czasu lokalnego, jako pierwsza Polka na szczycie Kangchenjunga (8586 m) położonym w Nepalu.

Relacja – Kinga Baranowska:

Jestem po. Na szczycie stanęłam późno, Góra niewyobrażalnie trudna i wymagająca, dla mnie najtrudniejsza ze wszystkich, na których do tej pory byłam. Jestem ekstremalnie zmęczona, straciłam tez głos od zimnego wiatru, ale tez szczęśliwa. Czeka mnie jeszcze trudne zejście do bazy z obozu IV. Górę tą dedykuje Wandzie Rutkiewicz. Więcej informacji jak zejdę do bazy.

* posty o wyprawach Kingi na mojej stronie kliknij : Kinga Baranowska

** poprzednie posty :

- Kinga Baranowska, first Polish woman to reach the summit of Kangchenjunga – video. Nowe relacje o zdobyciu szczytu.

- Kinga Baranowska, first Polish woman to reach the summit of Kangchenjunga. Kinga Baranowska pierwszą Polką, która zdobyła Kanczendzonge.

- video – Kinga Baranowska w Kathmandu Kangch 2009

Sponsorzy wyprawy.

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

The most remarkable of them all became Mr Park’s summit of the highly technical Everest SW face.

We lost two climbers; one on Everest north side and one on Manaslu. The list of 14, 8000er summiteers got another addition – this time of Ralf Dujmovits. His wife Gerlinde topped out Lhotse as well in her 12th, 8000er – equaling Edurne who summited Kangchenjunga in a scary climb. Nives Meroi turned back, for her husband.

Mr Park climbs Everest SW face The wall cost him three very good friends over the years. But for them exactly, South Korean Mr Park summited Everest Thursday, via a new route on the immense and difficult technical SW Face – 27 years since it last was climbed.

Everest south side: summits! About 100 climbers departed South Col Monday night on the normal route towards the top of the world. Jagged Globe was among the first summiteers at 7:15 am on Tuesday morning local time, followed by First Ascent (with Ed Viesturs on supplementary oxygen) at around 8 am. The following day, another wave of summits kicked off already before dawn. At 3.45am, 3.54am and 4.43am respectively the Singaporean women’s’ team were not only first up that morning but became also the first Singaporean women to summit the world’s tallest mountain. By Thursday, most teams had topped out. Croatian Darija and Iris Bostjanèiã became the first sisters to summit Everest together. British polar farer Ran Fiennes made it in his third attempt since his heart attack and Apa Sherpa summited the peak for a record 19th time.

Everest north side: summits! With fewer climbers to fix the normal route Everest north side proved a tougher nut to crack this season. In spite of high winds, the peak was summited on Monday morning by Kanagawa University’s Yasunori Tanaka (57) and Kenta Miyamori (28) and a large team of Chinese climbers. Wu Wenhong, from eastern Jiangsu Province, however died on descent at around 8,750 meters of altitude exhaustion. The north side of Everest was also summited by SummitClimb on 20 May.

Lhotse-Everest traverse: Ready to try again Heavy loaded, the Kazakh LET team fixed 600m of rope above C4, but were forced to abort their summit push when weather deteriorated. They left another 250 meters of rope in a cache close to the top, which they hope to use in a new attempt after a short rest in BC.

Lhotse summit! Gerlinde bags her 12th – Ralf his last Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, Ralf Dujmovits, Hirotaka Takeuchi and David Götller summited Lhotse; with that Gerlinde is now level with Edurne Pasaban: both hold the current female record with 12×8000ers summited; Ralf has become a 14×8000er summiteer. IMG put members on top and so did SummitClimb. Catalan Xavi Arias made it on his own – after his Sherpa skipped BC town just before the summit push.

Kangchenjunga – Edurne bags her 12th 8000er! Spanish Ferran Latorre, climbing ahead of the rest, topped-out Kangchenjunga around 2:30 pm, local time. Ferran’s mates Edurne Pasaban, Juanito Oiarzabal, and Asier Izguirre reached the summit about two hours later. The descent proved very difficult – especially for Edurne. The climbers reached high camp only past midnight, and Edurne was finally administered oxygen in C3 in order to make it back to BC. Alberto Zerain (K2 speed climber and survivor last year) abandoned his summit push and left high camp carrying oxygen and a tent to aid the descending climbers. Or so he thought: after checking they were OK, he continued up – and summited shortly after dawn.

Kangchenjunga – more summits with love as the greatest of them all “It was the toughest climb of my life!” Polish Kinga Baranowska (w/o 02) and Norwegian Jon Gangdal (on 02) both used the same words to describe their ascent of Kangchenjunga. Kinga summited alone and dedicated her top to Wanda Rutkiewicz’s memory.

Also the Koreans summited (on 02), according to Kinga. Had she continued up, she would have equaled Edurne and Gerlinde with 12, 8000ers summited. But Nives Meroi gave up her success for the best reason possible – Romano felt bad during the summit push and, fearing he might be developing HACE, Nives sacrificed her summit chance in order to escort her husband down.

Manaslu: the rocky top, and disaster Italian Mario Panzeri was the first to reach Manaslu’s summit last week, in his 10th 8000er. Alexei Bolotov’s Russian team paved the way on Monday but strong wind forced them back. A second attempt on May 18th lucked out and included Gleb Solokov, summiteer in the 2007 Russian K2 West Face expedition, and 2004’s Everest’s Central North face wall. Manaslu was also summited by Tamara Romero and Inma Garrido, from the Andalusian female Manaslu expedition and Manuel ‘Lolo’ Gonzales. American Nick Rice made it as well. Hungarian Zsolt Eröss (8, 8000ers) summited with Daniel Barna, “including its very top Rocky Summit,” the press correspondent pointed out. Sadly, fellow climber Levente Szabo fell to his death after turning back at 7800 meters.

Dhaulagiri: summits! South Korean Kim Chang and Seo Sung Ho from the Dynamic Busan Expedition (SK) reached the summit of Dhaulagiri last week in their second 8000 meter ascent this season. The summit marks the 9th 8000 meter peak for Kim Chang Ho (all without aid of bottled oxygen) and 5th 8000er for Seo Sung Ho. The expedition, led by Hong Bong Seong, plans the possibly first Nepal triple-header within one season and hopes to leave for Annapurna I after Dhaula and Manaslu. Also a Japanese mountaineer and 7 out of 9 DAV Summit Club Dhaulagiri Expedition members topped-out. DAV leader Luis Stitzinger and team mate Rupert are not yet done with Dhaula though. They hope to summit again, and then ski down to BC.

Cho Oyu: It’s over for the Spaniards Strong wind forced back the Spanish Al Filo team from Cho Oyu’s C2.

Cho Oyu: Denis’ new route topo Back in Kathmandu, Kazakh Denis Urubko sent RussianClimb a topo showing the new route he recently opened on Cho Oyu’s SE face. Denis’ line goes straight up the face and eventually joins the winter Polish route. Kazakhs Denis Urubko and Boris Dedeshko climbed Cho Oyu’s SE face in alpine style via a new route on May 11th – a remarkable finish of the 14×8000ers project for Urubko.

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* Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.