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    By N2H
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  • Everest History

     

    Timeline

    1921: First expedition

    1922: First attempt

    1924: Mallory and Irvine

    On June 8, Mallory and Irvine attempt the summit using oxygen and Irvine’s modified oxygen apparatus, from which they never returned. Odell, climbing in support below, wrote in his diary that he “saw Mallory & Irvine on the ridge, nearing base of final pyramid” at 12:50 p.m. that day. Later in his life, he said that what he believed were Mallory and Irvine were actually just rocks and that he only thought they had been moving. His statements and what he really saw are still being debated today. In 1979 climber Wang Hongbao of China revealed to a companion that he had discovered a body in 1975 thought at the time to be Irvine’s, but he was killed in a fall the next day before he could provide precise details to anyone else.

    In 1999, however, the Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition found Mallory’s body in the predicted search area near the old Chinese camp. Controversy has raged in the mountaineering community as to whether the duo may have summited 29 years before the confirmed ascent (and of course, safe descent) of Everest by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay in 1953. The general consensus among climbers has been that they did not, though recent findings may indicate otherwise. Though there is no physical evidence of either man above the Second Step, there is speculation that if Mallory had made it that far he likely summitted, as there are no difficult technical climbs further up. The leading theory amongst those supporting the summit theory has Mallory tackling the sheer face of the Second Step by standing on Irvine’s shoulders. Armed with Irvine’s spare oxygen tanks he could have summitted late in the day. Descending in darkness he may have decided to take the Norton Couloir rather than attempt down-climbing the Second Step in the dark. Almost everyone agrees Mallory died in a short fall during his descent through the couloir, where his body was found. Irvine probably briefly survived him as he awaited his companion’s return, at the foot of the Second Step, but died later of exposure. Irvine’s body was probably found by another Chinese climber in 1960 (nowhere near Mallory’s, proving the two had separated) but has not been rediscovered since, despite several searches in 2004.

    Mallory had gone on a speaking tour of the United States the year before in 1923; it was then that he exasperatedly gave the famous reply, “Because it is there,” to a New York journalist in response to hearing the question, “Why climb Everest?” for seemingly the thousandth time. Comprehensive information is available at Mallory and Irvine: The Final Chapter including critical opposing viewpoints.

    In 1995, George Mallory II of South Africa (his grandson) reached the summit of Everest.

    1933

    Flag of the United Kingdom Lady Houston, a British millionaire ex-showgirl, funded the Houston Everest Flight of 1933, which saw a formation of airplanes led by the Marquess of Clydesdale fly over the summit in an effort to deploy the British Union Jack flag at the top.

    1934

    A Tibetan named Gombu, himself a summiteer on the 1960 expedition confirmed the find, when in 1985, he emphatically answered in the affirmative after being asked the question twice. It must however be noted that whilst climbers from the Chinese expedition are on record, no such camp has ever been seen or found in the years since and most climbers are known to be somewhat sceptical to this “record”.

    1938

    1947

    1950

    1951

    1952

    1953: Tenzing and Hillary

    1960: The North Ridge

    1963

    1965

    1975

    1978

    1979

    1980

    1983

    1984

    1988

    1989

    1990

    1993

    1995

    1996: Disaster Year

    During the 1996 climbing season, fifteen people died trying to reach the summit, making it the deadliest single year in Everest history. That year, on May 10 a storm stranded several climbers between the summit and the safety of Camp IV, killing five on the south side (Rob Hall, Scott Fischer, Yasuko Namba, Doug Hansen and guide Andy Harris) and three Indian (Ladakhi) climbers on the north (Tsewang Paljor, Dorje Morup, Tsewang Smanla). Hall and Fischer were both highly experienced climbers who were leading paid expeditions to the summit. The disaster gained wide publicity and raised questions about the commercialization of Everest.

    Journalist Jon Krakauer, on assignment from Outside magazine, was also in Hall’s party, and afterwards published the bestseller Into Thin Air which related his experience. Anatoli Boukreev, a guide who felt impugned by Krakauer’s book, co-authored a rebuttal book called The Climb. The dispute sparked a large debate within the climbing community. In May 2004, Kent Moore, a physicist, and John L. Semple, a surgeon, both researchers from the University of Toronto, told New Scientist magazine that an analysis of weather conditions on that day suggested that freak weather caused oxygen levels to plunge by around 14%.[1][2]

    During the same season, climber and filmmaker David Breashears and his team filmed the IMAX feature Everest on the mountain (some climbing scenes were later recreated for the film in British Columbia, Canada). The 70 mm IMAX camera was specially modified to be lightweight enough to carry up the mountain, and to function in the extreme cold with the use of particular greases on the mechanical parts, plastic bearings and special batteries. Production was halted as Breashears and his team assisted the survivors of the May 10 disaster, but the team eventually reached the top on May 23 and filmed the first large format footage of the summit. On Breashears’ team was Jamling Tenzing Norgay, the son of Tenzing Norgay, following in his father’s footsteps for the first time. Also on his team was Ed Viesturs of Seattle, WA, who summited without the use of supplemental oxygen, and Araceli Seqarra, who became the first woman from Spain to summit Everest.

    The storm’s impact on climbers on the mountain’s other side, the North Ridge, where several climbers also died, was detailed in a first hand account by British filmmaker and writer Matt Dickinson in his book The Other Side of Everest.

    1998

    2000

    2001

    2002

    2003 – 50th Anniversary

    2004

    2005

    2006

    2007

    Timeline of regional, national, and ethnic records

    1978

    1982

    1984

    1986

    1988

    1990

    1991

    1992

    1995

    1997

    1998

    1999

    2001

    2003

    2005

    2006

     

    Israeli Dudu Yifrah holds a joint Israeli/Palestinian flag on the summit of Everest

     


    Israeli Dudu Yifrah holds a joint Israeli/Palestinian flag on the summit of Everest

    2007

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