Nepal Expedition Trips 2009 – Ama Dablam Expedition.
By himalayanadventure | June 7, 2009
Country/Region: Nepal 
Area: Everest Region
Season: March – May, Oct – Nov
Highest Point: 6,812 m
Grade Level: 5
Ama Dablam 6,812 metres (22,349 ft), one of the most beautiful mountains in the world, is a technical mountain for climbing. Although the height is only 6812m it requires steep ice, rock and snow climbing. Normally, three camps are set in the approach above the base camp (4,570m), however, only two camps are used to spend the night. The normal route for climbing is South-West Ridge. The ascent from Base Camp to camp one is considered one the difficult days of the expedition. We follow old grassy moraine ridges passing through a saddle and then turning to north climbing up rocky ground and through boulders to the ridge where camp I is set up. From camp I, we cross a rocky bowl and climb the ridge frequently alternating the sides along the fixed lines to the camp II. Climbing the ridge involves severe rock climbing which leads to the top of a yellow tower. The climbing route here from camp II changes significantly with the steep mixed gully’s of rock, ice and snow. The route leads to the ramp and climbs to an amphitheatre and then passes through steep snow and ice runnel and finally, along the snow ridge to reach camp III. The summit from camp III requires steep climb on snow and ice to the right of a huge hanging glacier.
Ama Dablam 6,812 metres (22,349 ft)
Experience Required: The Ama Dablam expedition is one of the most technically difficult expeditions. The climbers need to have good skills on rock and ice climbing and technically competent. On most parts of the routes there will be fixed rope, however, the climbers should posses skills to climb through steep rock and hard water ice.
Day By Day Itinerary:
Day 1: Arrival Kathmandu – Hotel
Day 2: sightseeing of Kathmandu Day 02 Kathmandu
Day 3: Day free to organize gears and breifing on the trip.
Day 4: fly to Lukla. Trek to Phakding.
Day 5: Trek to Namche Bazaar 3,410 m.
Day 6: Rest day in Namche.
Day 7 :Trek to Tengboche.
Day 8: Trek to Dingboche.
Day 9: Rest in Dingboche
Day 10: Trek to Lobuche
Day 11: Kalapathar & back Lobuche.
Day 12: Trek Back Pangboche
Day 13: Trek to Ama Dablam BC 4,480 mtr.
Day 14: Rest on Base Camp
Day 15-28: Ama Dablam Climbing Period
Day 29: Back to Base Camp and clean Base Camp.
Day 30:Trek back Tengboche
Day 31: Trek back to Namche Bazaar.
Day 32: Trek back to Phakding.
Day 33: Final trek to Lukla.
Day 34: Fly back to Kathmandu.
Day 35: Final departure
* Source : – http://www.sherpaclimbing.com/Nepal/Expedition/
** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.
Topics: Expedition, Himalaya, Nepal, Rock climbing, Travel, climbers | No Comments »
Tags: Ama Dablam, climbers, Dingboche, Everest Region, Expedition, Kala Patthar, Kathmandu, Lobuche, Lukla, Namche Bazaar, Nepal, Rock climbing, snow climbing, Travel, trekking.
Nepal Trekking – Mustang Trek (Forbidden Kingdom of Mustang).
By himalayanadventure | June 5, 2009
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Mustang has a long, rich and complex history that masks it one of the most interesting place in Nepal. The early history of Lo is Surrounded in legend. Myth and mystery, But there are records of events in Lo as early as the 8th century. It is quite likely that the Tibetan poet Milarepa, who lived from 1040 to 1123, visited Lo. Upper Mustang was once part of Ngari, a name for far western Tibet. Ngari was not a true political entity, but rather a loose collection of feudal domains that also included parts of Dolpo. By the 14th Century, much of Ngari, as well as most of what today is western Nepal, was part of the Malla empire governed from the capital at Sinja, near Jumla. It is generally believed that Ame Pal (Ama-dpal in Tibetan ) founded Lo in 1380 and was its first king. The Ancestry of the present Mustang Raja can be traced 25 generations back to Ame Pal. Ame Pal, or perhaps his father, conquered a large part of the territory in the upper Kali Gandaki and was responsible for the development of the city of Lo Manthang and many gompas. To the west, the Malla empire declined and split into numerous petty hill states. By the 18th century, Jumla had consolidated and reasserted its power. In an effort to develop their domain as a trading centre and to obtain Tibetan goods, the rulers of Jumla turned their attention eastward. In the mid-18th century they assumed control over Lo, from which they extracted as annual tribute. When he ascended the throne in 1762, prithvi Narayan Shah began to consolidated what is present-day nepal. At the time of his death, the kingdom extended from Gorkha eastward to the borders of Sikkim. His descendants directed their efforts westward and by 1789, Jumla had been annexed. The Gorkha armies never actually entered Lo; they recognized the rule of the Mustang Raja. Although Mustang became par of Nepal, the raja retained his title and Lo retained a certain amount of autonomy. Lo maintained its status as a separate principality until 1951. After the Rana rulers were overthrown and king Tribhuvan reestablished the rule of the Shah monarchs on 15 February 1951, Lo was more closely consolidated into Nepal. The raja was given the honorary rank of colonel in the Nepal army.
Mustang Trek
During the 1960s, after the Dalai lama had fled to India and Chiness armies established control over Tibet, Mustang was a centre for guerrilla operations against the Chinese. The soldiers were the Khampas, Tibet’s most fearsome warriors, who were backed by the CIA (some Khampas were secretly trained in the USA). At the height of the fighting there were at least 6000khampas in Mustang and neighboring border areas. The CIA’s support ended in the early 1970s when the USA, under Kissinger and Nixon, Initiated new and Better relations with the Chinese. The government of Nepal was pressed to take action against the guerrillas and, making use of internal divisions within the Khampa leadership, a bit of treachery and the Dalai Lama’s taped advice for his citizens to lay down their arms, it managed to disband the resistance without committing to action the 10,000 Nepali troops that had been sent to the area.
Mustang Trek
Though Mustang was closed, the vovernment allowed a few researchers into the area.Toni hagen included Mustang in his survey of the entire kindom of Nepal, and the Italian scholar Giuseppe Tucci visited in the autumn of 1952. Professor David Snellgrove travelled to the gegion in 1956 but did not visit Lo Manthang. Longtime Nepal resident Barbara Adams travelled to Mustang during the autumn of 1963.The most complete description of the area is Mustang, the Forbidden Kingdom, written by Michel Peissel, who spent several months in the area in the spring of 1964, Dr Harka Bahadur Gurung also visited and wrote about upper Mustang in October 1973. A number of groups legally travelled to upper Mustang during the 1980s by obtaining permission to climb Bhrikuti (6364), south-east of Lo Manthang.Other than a few special royal guests, the first legal trekkers were allowed into Mustang in March 1992 upon payment of a high fee for a special trekking permit.
Only camping trek allowed:
Completely closed to foreign trekkers until 1991, Mustang is an ancient Himalayan Kingdom. Inside the walled city of Lo Manthang are some of the largest Tibetan Buddhist gompas in Nepal. A difficult trek because of high altitude, exposed terrain and continual Strong winds.
Trip Facts:
Trekking Destination : Mustang Trek
Minimum altitude : 2810m.
Maximum altitude : 4,100m. (Ghar Gumba)
Grade :
Season : Spring & Autumn
Accommodation : Tented Camp
Duration : 17 Days
Minimum group size: 2 pax
Cost:$2050
Suggested Itinerary :
Day 01: Arrive Kathmandu & Transfer to Hotel.
Day 02: Full day guided sightseeing around of the Kathmandu valley. Join us for the welcome dinner at evening.
Day 03: Fly to Pokhara. Free to explore its attractions.
Day 04: Fly to Jomsom (2,700m), trek to Kagbeni (2,800m) (4 hrs) Camp
Day 05: Trek Kagbeni to Chhukasang (3,060m) (5-6 hrs). Camp.
Day 06: Trek Chhukasang to Samar (3,570m) (7-8 hrs). Camp.
Day 07: Trek Samar to Dhakmar (3,560m) (6-7 hrs). Camp.
Day 08: Trek Dhakmar to Tsarang (3,840m) (4-5 hrs). Camp.
Day 09: Trek Tsarang to Lo-Manthang (3,840m). Camp.
Day 10: Trek Lo-Manthang (Visit Eastern and Western Valley )
Day 11: Trek Lo-Manthang to Yara. (6 hrs). Camp.
Day 12: Trek Yara to Tangy (2,600m) (8 hrs). Camp.
Day 13: Trek Tangy to Tetang (2,600m). Camp.
Day 14: Trek Tetang to Muktinath (3,600m) (5 hrs). Camp.
Day 15: Trek Muktinath To Jomsom (2700m)(4 hrs). Camp.
Day 16: Flight Jomsom – Pokhara – Kathmandu.
Day 17: Free day to explore, and enjoy Kathmandu.
Day 18: Final Departure.
Copyright Contain By:
Nepal Visitors Network
P.O. Box :19760, Thamel, Kathmandu, Nepal.
Tel :+977-1-4263133, Fax:+977-1-4216454, +9779841258665 (M)
Skype: nepalvisitors
info@nepalvisitors.com
* Source :- http://himalman.wordpress.com/ – http://www.nepalvisitors.com/
** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.
Topics: Himalaya, Nepal, Travel, trekking | No Comments »
Tags: Chhukasang, Dhakmar, Forbidden Kingdom of Mustang, Ghar Gumba, Himalaya, Jomsom, Kathmandu, Lo-Manthang, Mustang, Nepal, Pokhara, Tangy, Travel, trek, trekking.
Nepal Trekking – Manaslu Trek (17 days).
By himalayanadventure | June 3, 2009
Total tour Duration : 23 days
Manaslu Trekking days : 17 days 
Trekking grade: strenous
Max altitude : 5213 m
Trekking style : Camping
Best Seasons: Oct. to Nov . and March to April
Min group size : 3 pax
Manaslu used to be a restricted trekking area , only from December 2007 that it is allowed for general trekkers. The Manaslu trekking takes us to the upper Budhi Gandaki of Gorkha district , also called Nupri in Tibetan. The region borders with Tibet, the people have active trading with the Tibetans and they are themselves descendants of Tibetans. Their speech, clothing and cultureare same as that of Tibetans. Manaslu trekking offers preserved, authentic villages, invaluable old monasteries, Tibetan Buddhist culture and superb mountain views. This trip is both a Himalayan trek and a cultural journey to medieval world.
The Manaslu trekking starts with a five hour drive to Arughat and the trail follows the valley of thundering Budhi Gandaki river. Passing through numerous waterfalls and enjoying the alpine scenery, we reach the exotic Buddhist villages of Sirdibas and Samagaon. These villages offer an otherworldly , exotic atmosphere and are a great place to watch authentic Buddhist arts. The mountain views in Nupri are sensational and the Larke pass (5,213m) is a dramatic Himalayan pass to cross. Crossing the Larke pass we emerge to Marshyangdi valley on the popular Annapurna circuit trek. Our trek ends at Beshisahar where we catch our vehicle back to Kathmandu.
Manaslu Trekking Itinerary
Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu, transfer to the hotel.
Day 02: Guided sightseeing tour in Kathmandu
Day 03: Drive to Arughat-500m (6 hr).
Day 04: Trek to – Arkhet-650m ( 5-6 hr).
Day 05: Trek to – Labu Bensi-700m (6-7 hr).
Day 06: Trek to - Tatopani-800m (5-6 hr).
Day 07: Trek to – Sirdibas
Day 08: Trek to - Ngyak-1550m (6-7 hr).
Day 09: Trek to – Namru-2450m (6-7 hr).
Day 10: Trek to – Lho Gaon-3000m (5-6 hr).
Day 11: Trek to – Sama Gaon-3450m (5-6 hr).
Day 12: Trek to – Samdo-3900m (4-5 hr).
Day 13: Rest and acclimatisation at Samdo
Day 14: Samdo – Larke Bazar-4150m (4-5 hr).
Day 15: Cross Larke Pass 5213m, the highest point in Manaslu trekking. Trek further to Bhimathang-3800m (7-8 hr)
Day 16: Bhimathang- Karche-2550m (5-6 hr).
Day 17: Karche- Dharapani-1943m (6-7 hr).
Day 18: Dharapani- Jagat-1314m (6-7 hr).
Day 19: Jagat- Bhulbhule
Day 20: Bhulbhule Besishahar
Day 21: Drive Besishahar to Kathmandu, 5 hours
Day 22: Free day in Kathmandu.Farewell Nepali dinner with ethnic cultural show.
Day 23: Fly back home
Manaslu trekking permit
Sep to Nov USD 35/week
Dec to Aug USD 25/week
Price: All our trips are tailor made trips with personalized services. In order for us to quote you the price, please write us with the number of persons in your group, your choice of hotels and ammendments in our itinerary, if any. Our prices are very reasonnable for the services we provide.
Included in the price
- All surface transfers as per itinerary
- Trekking permit.
- Two star hotel in Kathmandu in twin sharing ,bed and breakfast basis
- Fooding, lodging and other expenses of trekking crew
- Fooding (3 meals a day ) and lodging for the clients in trek days
- Necessary permit and national park fees
- Guided sightseeing tour in Kathmandu
- Farewell Nepali dinner.
Not included in the price
- single suppliment charges (if required.)
- Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu
- Departure tax from Kathmandu ($24 approx)
- Personal equipments and clothing
- International airfare and your travel insurances
- Cold drinks and beverages
- Personal expenses and tips to the crew
* Source : – http://www.trekkingnepal.biz/
** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.
Topics: Himalaya, Nepal, Travel, trekking | No Comments »
Tags: Beshisahar, Buddhist arts, Budhi Gandaki, Budhi Gandaki river, Gorkha, Himalaya, Kathmandu, Larke pass, Manaslu, Nepal, Sirdiba, Travel, trek, trekking.
Himalaya 2009 climbing season, Karakoram and Himalaya wrap-up /20/ – Week in Review.
By himalayanadventure | June 1, 2009
The last wave of climbers topped-out Everest last Saturday – as the weather window closed and conditions rapidly turned for the worse. Descending climbers performed several rescues on both sides of the mountain in a sudden storm.
Three climbers were lost – among them 3-time ExWeb award winner Sergei Samoilov; Denis Urubko’s free-spirited and courageous climbing partner.
The south side is now deserted while on the north side only a few climbers are still attempting ascents. Meanwhile, Pakistan is kicking off – with security updates posted at ExWeb.
Lhotse-Everest traverse: Max, Vaso and Sergei left BC on Sunday May 23rd and reported fair weather in C4 a few days later. Wednesday shocking news however arrived that Sergei Samoilov had perished. Sergei, 52, was Denis Urubko’s frequent climbing partner. A 2005 climb on Broad Peak’s unclimbed SW face gained the two an ExplorersWeb award, and a nomination for the international Piolet d’Or. In 2006 Denis and Sergei completed a new route on the NE side of Manaslu and in 2007, Denis and Sergei summited K2 in its latest summit ever and the first K2 north side summit in 11 years. The two mountaineers are the only to have gained no less than three Best-of-ExWeb awards (2005-2007). The remaining climbers of the Kazakh 2009 Lhotse-Everest traverse descended to BC by Friday and left for Lukla.
Everest casualties German (Calgary resident) Frank Ziebarth, 29, reportedly perished after summiting Everest w/o O2 via the South side on May 21st. Czech Veslav Chrzaszcz reportedly passed during the night at the North Col on May 18th, probably due to a heart attack.
Everest north side: Jarle Traa seriously ill in ABC Following a summit without O2 Norwegian climber Jarle Traa descended to ABC in critical condition with frostbite and hypothermia. Negotiations with Chinese authorities to allow an emergency airlift failed and Traa was eventually evacuated by car and transported to hospital in Kathmandu.
South side rescues 2008 K2 American/International expedition leader Mike Farris was reportedly climbing Everest south side without oxygen as an independent climber. Fellow mountaineers said he asked for help at the balcony and several large commercial teams reportedly assisted the climber down to C4.
First Ascent: Ed’s O2 “It was my goal and my desire to attempt my 7th Everest summit without supplementary O2,” Ed Viesturs reported. “To climb without O2 though, conditions have to be perfect. However, we had to spend an extra day at the South Col. At leaving for the summit on the following night it was very cold, windy and crowds were expected on the route. That’s why, for the sake of safety and group dynamics, that after long deliveries I opted to use O2 on my ascent.”
Everest records Bill Burke of Cost Mesa, Calif., became the oldest American Everest summiteer at 67. Eddy Dawes, 66, of Spokane, topped-out two days before. Kay LeClaire, 60, of Spokane, became the oldest U.S. woman to climb the peak. Lori Schneider 52, of Wisconsin, summited Everest with multiple sclerosis.
Nepali K2 heroes bag a double together Pasang Lama and Chhiring Dorje Sherpa summitted Makalu and Lhotse together on May 2nd and 22nd without the use of supplemental oxygen. Pasang, cousin of the Bhote brothers, and Chhiring Dorje Sherpa climbed K2 together last year as Sherpas for the Korean and American/International expeditions.
Cho Oyu: SummitClimb reportedly topped out Cho Oyu last Sunday. “It’s very windy up here and we can see Everest, so that’s how we know we’re on the summit. We can look out and see the Tibetan plateau,” Dan reported.
Shisha Pangma: The Romanian expedition to Shisha’ SW Face is re-scheduled for 17 September, according to the team’s website.
Kangchenjunga Basque war wounds Jorge Egocheaga, suffering from acute bronchitis during the summit push, broke three ribs. Koke Lasa and summiteer Alberto Zerain are also reportedly frostbitten.
Lhotse: Summit reports In her debrief, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner reported how she waited to take the last steps with Ralf. “It was exhausting and wonderful at the same time – I was there to escort my husband the moment he achieved his 14th 8000+ meters summit.” Silvio Mondinelli commented, “she is humble and not competitive at all. In fact, Gerl was really concerned at knowing Edurne had problems on descent from Kangchenjunga’s summit.”
Nanda Devi East – it’s over “The summit attempt failed due to bad weather conditions and Jarek’s health problems,” the Polish home team reported. “All expedition’s members are currently back in Base Camp.” Running out of time in rough weather, the expedition is now over.
Pakistan: First climbers in Broad Peak BC – security update Antoine Girard, Ludo Gianbiasi and Annapurna survivor Eli Revol have arrived Broad Peak and started their ascent. The French team drove non-stop past Chilas “since Taliban terrorists are reported to descend from Swat valley in the dark and loot convoys staying for the night in villages by the KKH,” but reported no incidents. Rumors about the kidnapping of a foreign expedition leader were debunked by ExWeb correspondent in Islamabad Karrar Haidri. “A French citizen has been kidnapped in Quetta as he arrived there from Iran, but that person is not related to climbing expeditions.”
New teams for K2 Pakistan and China will unite on K2. Twice Everest summiteer Yang Chunfeng (40) is teaming up with two yet undisclosed Pakistani climbers. “The expedition has been given the name ‘K2 Bearing witness to the friendship between Pakistan and China’,” APP news agency reported. Yang won’t be the only Chinese climber on K2 this summer: Shi Hai Feng, outfitted by Saltoro Summits, will attempt the peak together with a climbing mate. Thomas Andersen, Mads Kristensen and Jakob Mikkelsen also announced plans for K2.
Multi-Gasherbrum international expedition An international team is climbing all the Gasherbrums this season, with each member aiming for a certain number of peaks. Bruce Normand will go for the 4 higher G’s (GI, GII, GII and GIV); Dirk Grunert will attempt both GI and GII; Polish Jacek Teler hopes to climb GII and possibly K2; Kinga Baranowska is heading for the two 8000+ meters Gasherbrums, while Daniela Teixeira and Paulo Roxo will return for GII via the French spur.
Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.
e-mail or call +1 212 966 1928
* Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com
* zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.
Topics: Expedition, Himalaya, Week-In-Review, climbers | No Comments »
Tags: Cho Oyu, climbers, Denis Urubko, Everest north side, Everest records, Expedition, Gasherbrum, Himalaya, Kangchenjunga, Lhotse-Everest traverse, Nanda Devi East, Shisha Pangma, Week-In-Review.
Bhutan Treks and Tours : Central Bhutan Tour.
By himalayanadventure | May 30, 2009
Bhutan lies in the eastern Himalayas, between Tibet to the north, the Indian territories of Assam and 
West Bengal, to the south and east, and Sikkim to the west. Bhutan is a tiny country has a total area of about 47,00 square KM. Bhutan is loacted in the heart of the high Himalayan mountain range, Bhutan is a land-locked country like Nepal surrounded by mountains.The sparsely populated Greater Himalayas, bounded to the north by the Tibetan plateau, reach heights of over 7,300 meters (23,950ft.), and extend southward losing height, to form the fertile valleys of the Lesser Himalayas divided by the Wang, Sunkosh, Trongsa and Manas Rivers. Monsoon influences promote dense forestation in this region and alpine growth at higher altitudes. The cultivated central uplands and Himalayan foothills support the majority of the population. In the south, the Duars (the gates or doors; the traditional 18 points of access into Bhutan from the Indian plain.) drop sharply away from the Himalayas into the large tracts of semi-tropical forest, savannah grassland and bamboo jungles. Bhutan has remained a hidden Kingdom by choice for many years. Today, it has opened its door to visitors, and a small number of people are welcome to explore the Kingdom.
7 Night/ 8 Days Bhutan Tour. Bhutan Group Tours to Thimpu, Paro, Wangdi and Punakha Valleys.
The Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan offers Western and Asian tourist a unique and well preserved 
culture and heritage of this beautiful country. A majority of the Bhutanese people are of Tibetan origin and follow a sect of Tibetan Buddhism. One of the least densely populated countrries in Aisa, Bhutan offers a charming culture and hospitable people amongst a grand landscape of forested mountains and deep valleys gushing with clear rivers. Visit quaint villages with wooden singled rooms, great fortressed dzongs and Buddhist monasteries as you literally travel back in time. We offer short 4 to 5 day tours to Bhutan as well as week long tours to experience Bhutan’s famous western valleys. The longer Bhutan tours will take you to the central valleys of Bumthang and even to little visited far Eastern towns of Mongar and Tashigang. Join our Group tours to Bhutan or we can arrange customized private tour to Bhutan.
Day By Day Itinerary:
1 ARRIVE BHUTAN
Fly Bangkok to Paro, Bhutan.
Afternoon visit Museum and Paro Town. Hotel.
Flights are also available from Kathmandu and New Delhi.
2 PARO SIGHTSEEING
Hike to Taktsang Monastery (3-4 hrs).
Overnight hotel in Paro.
3 THIMPU SIGHTSEEING
Drive Paro to Thimpu. Afternoon sightseeing.
Overnight at hotel in Thimpu.
4 PUNAKHA & WANGDUE SIGHTSEEING
Day Excurdion to Punakha & Wangdue valleys.
Overnight hotel in Paro.
5 PHOBJEKHA VALLEY SIGHTSEEING
Day excursion to Phobjekha valley.
Overnight hotel in Punakha.
6 THIMPU SIGHTSEEING
Drive to Thimpu. Afternoon free in Thimpu.
Overnight at hotel in Thimpu.
7 PARO SIGHTSEEING
Return to Paro. Afternoon in Paro.
Overnight hotel in Paro.
8 DEPARTURE FROM BHUTAN
Fly from Paro to Bangkok, Kathmandu or New Delhi. End of Tour.
* Source : – http://www.forbestraveler.com/ – http://www.explorehimalaya.com/
** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.
Topics: Bhutan Tours, Travel, trekking | No Comments »
Tags: Aisa, Bhutan Tours, eastern Himalayas, Greater Himalayas, Paro, Punakha Valleys, Thimpu, Tibetan Buddhism, Travel, trekking, Wangdi..
Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 8 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent. Himalaya wrap-up: over on Nanda Devi East.
By himalayanadventure | May 29, 2009
Polish Himalaya Expeditions 2009
Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009
Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 led by Jan Lenczowski (Grandson of Jakub Bujaka – first ascent Nanda Devi East), the team : MARCIN MIOTK, GRZEGORZ MRÓZ, JAROSŁAW WOĆKO, NARCYZ SADŁOŃ, PAWEŁ SZLACHTA, TOMASZ WALKIEWICZ, DANIEL CIESZYŃSKI, GRZESIEK SOSIŃSKI, RAFAŁ SZENDZIELARZ. 
Goal:
Nanda Devi East (7816 m ) – they will attempt to conquer the mountain using the Polish route from 1939.
Accomplishment time:
The attempt will take place between 20 April and 7 June 2009.
Description of the expedition:
The expedition will commence in 20 April 2009. The participants have obtained all necessary permits. They will attempt to conquer the mountain using the Polish route from 1939.
Nanda Devi is the tallest mountain in the Garhwal Himalaya, and the second tallest peak in all of India. It consists of two distinct summits, with the main peak reaching 7816m with the secondary summit, known as Nanda Devi East, topping out 7434m. The entire massif is surrounded by a ring of challenging and tall Himalayan peaks, which helps to make the region, known as the Nanda Devi Sanctuary, almost inaccessible. The mountain is also viewed as sacred to the Hindi people, as it is named after one of their goddesses. Many consider it to be the one of the most beautiful mountains in the world.
Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 – in review.
Himalaya wrap-up: over on Nanda Devi East.
27.05.2009 Nanda Devi East – – it’s over.
Expedition leader Jan Lenczowski writes today on the Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 website, that forecasts show no chance of a window before June 7, the end of accomplishment time. They organizing porters and BC is packed up.
Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 team : MARCIN MIOTK, GRZEGORZ MRÓZ, JAROSŁAW WOĆKO, NARCYZ SADŁOŃ, PAWEŁ SZLACHTA, TOMASZ WALKIEWICZ, DANIEL CIESZYŃSKI, GRZESIEK SOSIŃSKI, RAFAŁ SZENDZIELARZ, JAN LENCZOWSKI.
Inscription : Nanda Devi East, 2.7.1939, first ascent, A. Karpiński, J. Bujak, S. Bernadzikiewicz, J. Klarner POLAND
* Source : – http://nandadevi.pl/
Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009
– wyprawa z okazji 70 lecia polskiego himalaizmu.
Z okazji 70-lecia pierwszej polskiej wyprawy w Himalaje wyruszyła wyprawa jubileuszowa na Nanda Devi East.
Celem obecnej wyprawy jest przypomnienie o sukcesach Polaków w Himalajach i powtórzenie drogi z 1939 roku. Trzon ekspedycji stanowić będą młodzi himalaiści, mający już doświadczenie wspinaczkowe w górach wysokich. Wyprawa wyruszyła 20 kwietnia, powrót zaplanowano na 7 czerwca 2009 roku.
Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 – relacje.
27.05.2009 Zakończenie wyprawy.
Niestety nie udało się zdobyć szczytu, tym razem zwyciężyła pogoda. A oto jak uczestnicy wyprawy relacjonują jej zakończenie.
Wszyscy członkowie wyprawy Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 są już w bazie. Ze względu na fatalne warunki pogodowe oraz brak czasu na dalszą akcję górską, kierownictwo podjęło decyzję o zakończeniu wyprawy. Wszyscy alpiniści czują się dobrze.
Szczegóły w relacji kierownika wyprawy Jana Lenczowskiego: RELACJA
Atak szczytowy nie powiódł się z powodu złych warunków atmosferycznych (ograniczona widoczność i silny wiatr) oraz kłopotów zdrowotnych Jarka Woćko.
Szczegóły w relacji Daniela Cieszyńskiego z obozu II: RELACJA
Dzisiaj około godziny 10 czasu miejscowego, uczestnicy wyprawy odsłonili w okolicach bazy tablicę pamiątkową z inskrypcją: ” Nanda Devi East, 2.7.1939, first ascent, A. Karpiński, J. Bujak, S. Bernadzikiewicz, J. Klarner POLAND”. Pomysł i projekt tablicy powstał przy współpracy wszystkich uczestników Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009, z inspiracji Narcyza Sadłonia.
Relacja Jana Lenczowskiego: RELACJA
W Fotogalerii znajdują się nowe zdjęcia z obozu II i odsłonięcia tablicy.
** Źródła : – http://nandadevi.pl/
** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.
Topics: Expedition, Himalaya, Travel, climbers | No Comments »
Tags: advanced base camp, Base Camp, climbers, Delhi, Expedition, first ascent, Himalayas, independent summits, Jakub Bujak, Janusz Klarner, Longstaff pass, Marcin Miotk, mountaineering, Nanda Devi East, Tent, Travel.
Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 7 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.
By himalayanadventure | May 28, 2009
Polish Himalaya Expeditions 2009
Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009
Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 led by Jan Lenczowski (Grandson of Jakub Bujaka – first ascent Nanda Devi East), the team : MARCIN MIOTK, GRZEGORZ MRÓZ, JAROSŁAW WOĆKO, NARCYZ SADŁOŃ, PAWEŁ SZLACHTA, TOMASZ WALKIEWICZ, DANIEL CIESZYŃSKI, GRZESIEK SOSIŃSKI, RAFAŁ SZENDZIELARZ.
Goal:
Nanda Devi East (7816 m ) – they will attempt to conquer the mountain using the Polish route from 1939.
Accomplishment time:
The attempt will take place between 20 April and 7 June 2009.
Description of the expedition:
The expedition will commence in 20 April 2009. The participants have obtained all necessary permits. They will attempt to conquer the mountain using the Polish route from 1939.
Nanda Devi is the tallest mountain in the Garhwal Himalaya, and the second tallest peak in all of India. It consists of two distinct summits, with the main peak reaching 7816m with the secondary summit, known as Nanda Devi East, topping out 7434m. The entire massif is surrounded by a ring of challenging and tall Himalayan peaks, which helps to make the region, known as the Nanda Devi Sanctuary, almost inaccessible. The mountain is also viewed as sacred to the Hindi people, as it is named after one of their goddesses. Many consider it to be the one of the most beautiful mountains in the world.
Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 – in review.
26.05.2009 The summit attempt not succeeded.
Expedition member Tomek Walkiewicz writes today on the Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 website that first attempt ended at around 6,900 m.
25.05.2009 The summit attempt starts tonight
Tonight Jarek Woćko and Daniel Cieszyński will try to get to the summit of Nanda Devi East.
Unfortunately during the weekend the weather changed at Nanda Devi massif. Visibility was restricted to 10 m and the wind was very strong.
Today the weather was a little bit better. Jarek and Daniel got to the heigh of 6900 m. Tonight they start first summit attempt.
23.05.2009 The Camp II set up
Today Jarek Woćko, Daniel Cieszyński i Marcin Miotk set up the Camp II at the height of 6500 m.
Yesterday they did not manage to leave the ridge and get to the height of 6500 m, where there is quite flat area to put the tent. They had to spend the night on the very narrow ridge.
Today everything went according to the plan and the Camp II was set up.
* Source : – http://nandadevi.pl/
Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009
– wyprawa z okazji 70 lecia polskiego himalaizmu.
Z okazji 70-lecia pierwszej polskiej wyprawy w Himalaje wyruszyła wyprawa jubileuszowa na Nanda Devi East.
Celem obecnej wyprawy jest przypomnienie o sukcesach Polaków w Himalajach i powtórzenie drogi z 1939 roku. Trzon ekspedycji stanowić będą młodzi himalaiści, mający już doświadczenie wspinaczkowe w górach wysokich. Wyprawa wyruszyła 20 kwietnia, powrót zaplanowano na 7 czerwca 2009 roku.
Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 – relacje.
26.05.2009 Odwrót
Niestety z powodu fatalnych warunków atmosferycznych ekipie szczytowej nie udało się zdobyć wierzchołka Nanda Devi East.
Jarek Woćko, Daniel Cieszyński i Janek Lenczowski wracają właśnie do bazy głównej.
Tomek Walkiewicz – RELACJA
Nanda Devi – na zdjęciu zaznaczono prawdopodobną najwyższą pozycję (6900 m) jaką udało się osiągnąć Jarkowi Woćko i Danielowi Cieszyńskiemu. Punkt jest zaznaczony schematycznie na podstawie relacji ekipy.
25.05.2009 Atak szczytowy za kilka godzin
We wtorek, 26 maja, Jarek Woćko i Daniel Cieszyński podejmą jedyną próbę ataku szczytowego. Z obozu II wyruszą ok. godz. 3. W obozie I na przełęczy Longstaffa znajduje się Janek Lenczowski. Pozostali uczestnicy oczekują w bazie.
Jeśli łączność pozwoli przebieg ataku szczytowego będziemy relacjonować na bieżąco na stronie www.nandadevi.pl.
Tomek Walkiewicz z bazy głównej: RELACJA
25.05.2009 Załamanie pogody, ale akcja szczytowa trwa
Miniony weekend przyniósł przełom w pogodzie, ale też w akcji górskiej.
Sobota:
Obóz II (6500 m n.p.m.) został założony ponad skalną częścią grani, daleko za zaporęczowanym odcinkiem. Z powodu trudnego terenu, wykopanie platformy pod namiot zajęło 1,5 godziny. Widoczność na górze wynosiła tylko 10m, w dodatku wiał bardzo silny wiatr.
Jarek Woćko z obozu II: RELACJA
Niedziela:
W niedzielę nastąpiło silne załamanie pogody. W bazie padał śnieg, powyżej 6000 m n.p.m. widoczność spadła do zera. Jarosław Woćko i Daniel Cieszyński czekają z atakiem na zmianę pogody.
Tomek Walkiewicz z bazy głównej: RELACJA
Poniedziałek:
Godz. 8:00 czasu miejscowego W obozie II widoczność poprawiła się. Jarek i Daniel zamierzają wyjść w ciągu godziny. Dalsze plany uzależniają od zmiany pogody.
Rozmowa przez radio Narcyza Sadłonia z Jarkiem Woćko: RELACJA
Godz. 10:00 Jarek i Daniel dotarli na 6900 m n.pm.! Jutro zamierzają podjąć atak szczytowy na lekko.
Tumany chmur nad masywem Nanda Devi
23.05.2009 Obóz II założony
Dzisiaj Jarek Woćko, Daniel Cieszyński i Marcin Miotk założyli obóz II na wysokości 6500 m.
W dniu wczorajszym zespołowi nie udało się opuścić grani i dotrzeć na pola firnowe pod Wielkim Uskokiem, gdzie miał zostać założony obóz II. Po całodniowej wspinaczce na powietrznej grani, gdzie każdy błąd groził upadkiem w dwukilometrową przepaść, chłopaki musieli rozbić obóz na grani na wysokości 6300 m. Szczegóły w relacji Jarka.
Jarek Woćko – RELACJA
Dzisiaj wszystko poszło już zgodnie z planem i obóz II został założony na wyokości 6500 m.
Na poniższym szkicu zaznaczono obóz II oraz 3 uskoki, które muszą pokonać alpiniści przed szczytem i które będą stanowić główny problem wspinaczkowy.
Szkic udostępniony dzięki uprzejmości Ricard Miquel z hiszpańskiej wyprawy, która zdobyła szczyt w 2004 roku.
** Źródła : – http://nandadevi.pl/
** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.
Topics: Expedition, Himalaya, Travel, climbers | 1 Comment »
Tags: advanced base camp, Base Camp, climbers, Delhi, Expedition, first ascent, Himalayas, independent summits, Jakub Bujak, Janusz Klarner, Longstaff pass, Marcin Miotk, mountaineering, Nanda Devi East, Tent, Travel.